Brines 101: The differences between Gradient and Equilibrium Brines

DivotMaker

New member
My jerky experiment this past weekend prompted me to learn more about brining. Here's the link, for those of you that haven't seen it:

http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=1503.0

I discovered the advantage to using brines on poultry and pork, but now realize I didn't know a whole lot about what I was doing.  All I knew, was that I could mix a solution of mainly salt and sugar, soak meat in it, and the end result would be meat that was much more moist and flavorful that without the brine.  A bit of a "dark science," I suppose.  Just follow the potion....  In the process of devising a jerky curing brine, I learned a lot about the what, but also the how and why brining works (with the help of Martin from DiggingDogFarms).  Here's a little about what I learned, and some links for you to learn a lot of details on your own!

How Brines Work:

A common misconception is that brines work through osmosis.  They, in fact, work through a process know as diffusion.  Without getting too deep in the weeds (you can watch the sources videos for the fully-illustrated explanations), diffusion allows the salt and water molecules to diffuse throughout the meat.  Osmosis would pull the water out of the meat into the solution (path of least resistance). 

The other thing that occurs is that the negative salt ions actually modify the protein molecules in the meat.  They cause the protein fibers to expand (push away from each other), which allows more solution to pass through the fibers.  These modified protein molecules then act as a barrier, of sorts, during cooking to trap the moisture inside the meat.  So, brined meat will weigh more after brining, and will be more plump and juicy after cooking.

Two different kinds of brine: Gradient and Equilibrium

Gradient Brine: 
A gradient brine is all I've ever used.  This is any of my brine recipes on the forum, with the exception of my jerky brine.  Essentially, a gradient brine is one that is a set amount of ingredients, and time is the determining factor.  For example, many have seen brines that start with:

1 gallon of water
1 cup of sugar
1 cup of kosher salt
...and various other ingredients for flavor (onion powder, garlic powder, pepper, etc.).  These ingredients are not important for this discussion, as they only affect the final flavor profile of the meat.  They will be, however, figured in to the equilibrium brine calculation, so far as weight.

Once the basic gradient brine is assembled, our key metric is going to be time in the brine.  For example, I brine a whole chicken no longer than 3-4 hours, but will brine a 9 lb pork butt for 12-13.  If you keep a chicken in for 12 hours, you're going to have one salty bird!  So, the dark science comes into play again!  We all have our preferences on time, through trial and error, and our own personal tastes. 

Many large operations use gradient brines because they are simple; one brine, many products.  The difference is that they have the timing thing down to a science.  X gallons of brine, X lbs of meat, X time.  Consistency through a process.  Unfortunately, many of us at home aren't as "precise" as a commercial operation.  Sometimes, life gets in the way and we miss a deadline to pull the meat from the brine, or just forget how long it was actually in for!  I've been lucky with my timing, for the most part.  One time, I did over-brine some baby back ribs.  I realize, now, that this was luck.  No science, just trial and error.

Equilibrium Brine:  So what if you could take the "guesswork" out of brining, and actually predict the results?  Enter the equilibrium brine! 

OK, so we've learned that brining works by diffusion, not osmosis.  With that in mind, equilibrium brining calculates that diffusion, predictably. 

First of all, we are dealing with a known weight of meat, and an equal weight of solution.  If you have two containers of solution, side-by-side, with a tunnel between them, and fill both with exactly the same volume weight of solution, they will eventually reach equilibrium.  So, one container contains a 2% salt solution, and the other container is plain water.  Eventually, the two containers (as a whole unit) will contain a 1% salt solution.  Those salt molecules are bouncing off each other, and will eventually bounce through the tunnel, into the water where there are no salt molecules.  The 2% solution will diffuse into the 0% solution, and the overall will be a 1% solution.  Make sense?  That's what's happening in our meat!  If we make a solution exactly the same weight as the meat, the salt, sugar & cure will diffuse into the meat and reach equilibrium!  So, no matter how much time the meat sits in the solution, the salt, sugar and cure content will never exceed what it was calculated to be!  Predictable results, and easy modification of results.  Here's a link to Martin's calculator:

Martin's Equilibrium Brine Calculator

Just plug-in the variables, and your results will calculate.  There's even a handy-dandy conversion calculator! 

Real-world test:

The link above documents my jerky brine.  Here's the calculations I plugged into the calculator:

Weight of meat in Grams:        3631
Cure #1 % nitrite:                  6.25%
Salt % Desired:                      2
Sugar % Desired:                    2
Parts Per Million (PPM) Nitrite:  156

            Calculate the Cure

Cure #1 Needed:                    9.06 grams
Salt Needed:                          64.12 grams
Sugar Needed:                        72.62 grams
Total                                      3776.8 grams  (this is the total of meat + cure, salt and sugar)

By weighing each ingredient, and adding them to your water (or flavoring sauces, like soy and Worcestershire), they will be considered in the total weight of the solution.  Remember, our solution must weigh 3631 grams for a 1:1 brine. 

What I've learned:

Equilibrium brining, although more preparation work, is a superior brining method to achieve predictable, and consistent, results.  In my jerky brine, for example, I know that I need to reduce the salt in the brine to 1.5%, so I can safely add a little additional seasoning (containing salt) to the surface prior to smoking.  This, to me, is much more appealing than just "guessing" that I need to cut the brine time by, say, 2 hours!  While I assume I could calculate the salt in the seasoning, it's subjective and based on taste preference.  There still needs to be a little "dark science" in this to make me happy!

Martin (DiggingDogFarms) will (hopefully) chime-in and correct any of my misunderstandings, errors, or downright lies (unintentional, I assure you!).  This process is fascinating to me, and I plan on exploring it much further!

For some really good tutorials and explanations on this (far better than my cliff notes), check out Stella Culinary:

https://www.stellaculinary.com/podcasts/video/the-science-behind-brining-resource-page#videothree

There'll be a 100-question quiz tomorrow.  Bring a #2 pencil, please. ???

Class dismissed. ;)
 
So, would the following assumptions be correct?
  • The equilibrium brine does not have as much salt and sugar as a gradient brine
  • The time it will take for the brine and meat to reach equilibrium will be longer than with a gradient brine
  • How do you know when equilibrium has been met? Video number 4 talks about a salt meter to test the salt levels. Is it necessary to have a salt meter?
It seems that there is a place for both types of brining methods. This is just another tool in the box.

This is a very interesting topic. I really do feel like I am in school. Thanks for today's lecture Professor Tony.


 
NDKoze said:
So, would the following assumptions be correct?
  • The equilibrium brine does not have as much salt and sugar as a gradient brine
  • The time it will take for the brine and meat to reach equilibrium will be longer than with a gradient brine
  • How do you know when equilibrium has been met? Video number 4 talks about a salt meter to test the salt levels. Is it necessary to have a salt meter?
It seems that there is a place for both types of brining methods. This is just another tool in the box.

This is a very interesting topic. I really do feel like I am in school. Thanks for today's lecture Professor Tony.

Gregg,

I believe your assumptions are correct, Sir!  Martin will probably chime in on this, as well.  I only believe the salt meter would be needed for large items that require more time.  I didn't need it for my jerky, as it was 1/4" slices, so it wasn't a long process.  I plan on picking one up soon (they're pretty cheap).

Yes, this is another tool.  I will still to my gradient brine for poultry and pork butts - can't mess with the results there! ;)
 
NDKoze said:
So, would the following assumptions be correct?
  • The equilibrium brine does not have as much salt and sugar as a gradient brine
Yes....saving on ingredients is one of the benefits.
  • The time it will take for the brine and meat to reach equilibrium will be longer than with a gradient brine
Yes, it can take a VERY long time with larger pieces of meat.....that's why I recommend injecting a portion of the brine into anything that's thick.
  • How do you know when equilibrium has been met? Video number 4 talks about a salt meter to test the salt levels. Is it necessary to have a salt meter?
You don't need any special equipment...this is where experience plays a part, the "art" part of curing meats and sausages.

It seems that there is a place for both types of brining methods. This is just another tool in the box.

This is a very interesting topic. I really do feel like I am in school. Thanks for today's lecture Professor Tony.

FWIW....here's my brief definition of equilibrium bring....some folks may find it useful....

Equilibrium brining is a method of brining that makes it impossible to over-salt or over-cure meat when using a reasonable percentage of salt and the proper amount of cure. In equilibrium brining the submerged meat and the cover brine (or cover brine and injected brine, in larger pieces of meat) act as a single system and are considered a single unit when calculating salt, sugar and cure amounts. Over time, the ingredients in the brine migrate into the meat until levels in the meat tissue and in the brine are balanced via osmosis and diffusion. Therefore, the calculation for ingoing salt, sugar and cure is based on the weight of the meat plus the weight of the water or other liquid used in the brine.
 
Martin, do you ever use a Jaccard? This was brought up in Video 4 from the Stella Culinary site that Tony posted.

Seems like a cool way of allowing the brine to really get deep into the meat.

Is there a negative side of this?
 
I haven't used a Jaccard, but I know some folks do to speed up brining.
No negatives that I know of other than introducing surface bacteria to the inside of the meat, but that's a possible issue with injecting too.
 
Tony, fascinating link.  I will have to read it a few more times to achieve mental equilibrium.  Your write up is the finest post I have seen on this forum.  My sincerest appreciation!

Martin, please allow me to pick your brain..... I have cooked a few flats recently & I assumed my prep was overkill but the final product was so ridiculously good I haven't altered a thing.  The flavor was outstanding, the moistness was perfect & the fat was like butter (it literally dissolved on my tongue).  I did a gradient brine useing equal parts salt & sugar (1 cup each) + some spices & let sit for 24 hours.  I then rinsed and injected a diluted garlic mojo with apple juice, used a mixture of cane syrup & yellow mustard as a binder, applied a rub, wrapped in Saran wrap & let get happy for 2 more days.  I then smoked to 200 degrees.  Unbelievable!  Does the brine & injection make sense scientifically?
 
There's nothing wrong with your method. Some say there's no point in brining beef because it doesn't make a difference....I disagree....I believe that it surely does makes a difference!
 
Can you do the equilibrium brine without the instacure#1?  If so, would you replace with regular salt?  I have ordered some cure#1 but would like to start brining a brisket tonight.
 
Sure, Walt.  The equilibrium brine process will allow you to control the salt and sugar results precisely.  The cure is not required, but you will need to add the cure calculation to the salt you add.  Remember that #1 is 93.5% regular salt, to get a 2% salt content, you would need to add the cure weight in regular salt (kosher or sea salt).  Make sense?
 
Let us know what percentages you go with.  I'm sure you'll probably adjust on the next one, so a starting point will be great!  I'm going to brine a brisket soon, so I look forward to your results!
 
Martin,

What is the maximum time you could leave the protein In the equilibrium brine (useing your standard parameters in the formula)?  My last brine was 20lbs of butt & they sat for 11 days. Never found time to get to them sooner. Cooked one a couple days ago & it was outstanding.  My understanding is if its over 14 days, instacure#2 would be needed.  Is this correct & if so what benefit, if any, would there be to the protein?  Or, should a 14 day cieling be placed on this type of brineing?
 
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