Smokin-It User Forum!
Auber PID Controllers => Auber Instructions => Topic started by: coachB on March 02, 2015, 01:58:56 PM
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I need some advice guys. I thought I had this installation figured up and wired correctly, but I think I was wrong. I did an Auber permanent install (no problems), and the factory bypass with the DPDT switch. I then did the autotune which appeared to be fine. Had to do a rib smoke yesterday and the weather wasn't the best so I was going to do it with the original factory setup and not subject the Auber to any rain. What a fiasco. Set the controller to 235 and dropped an old, unreliable meat probe in the box. The temp never got above 180, but again, not reliable. 6 hrs later I pulled the ribs. 170-180 was probably correct so you can guess how they came out.
The power (red) light only comes on in one position, not both. But it seems heat is being generated in both, but the stock position temp is not reliable. All the connections are tight.
I don't have a smartphone for pictures and I don't know how to imbed from a camera. Any help would be appreciated as I have 9.6 lbs of loin for bacon and 8.5 lbs for pastrami that has to be smoked very soon.
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Can you download your camera pics to your computer? If so, you can just attach them by using the "attachments and other options," below the post text window. A picture or two would be worth a thousand words, in this case.
Have you tried reconnecting the power leads to the stock controller (bypassing the switch), and testing the temp with something in the smoker (bricks, or other suitable heat sink)? I'd isolate the switch first. I guess it's possible that it's limiting, or throttling, your power. Remove it from the equation and test. If that doesn't get the heat up, we can go from there with the next step.
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I may have stumbled on a fix, Tony. I pretty much ended up switching a bunch of things around. The problem seemed to be where the wires (2) to the light were connected. The one that runs down the right side is unchanged. The one that went to the controller was the question for rerouting. I spliced it into the middle set of contacts (power)--to the wire that comes out of the heater element.
That seemed to do the trick. I set up the Auber for C 01 145/1 hr, C02 225/until 195, C03 135/l hr. The 1st command did not work--the heat went straight to 225 but has stabilized there. I will watch the internal temp to see if the program is holding.
I will check it further tomorrow to see if reversing the bypass goes to factory controls.
Don't have a clue how to do pictures to computer. All my camera epuipment is 35mm. Yeah, I know, I'm a dinosaur.
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Bill, what did you buy for a DPDT switch? The power light should come on in both modes (assuming you have your analog controller in a temperature position and your Auber activated). A picture would be good to see here. Did you follow some steps from another post on this forum? Can you provide the link to which post(s) you used as guidance?
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Here's a good post with pics:
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=1863.msg17742#msg17742
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Tony, yes, that was the schematic that finally provided some help. Even enlarged it is difficult to read, but it worked. The problem with most of the pics in the threads is that they don't show ALL the wiring, mostly close-ups of connections. Like which of the 2 power wires takes the light wire splice into which side of the middle set of terminals.
Right now if the power light comes on when thrown in either position. I will be checking tomorrow to make sure the unit functions without using the Auber.
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Bill,
I had to think through the wiring as well. My wiring was a bit different but I also found lack of complete pictures. So, I took quite a few pics when I did my wiring job that showed the complete job for my situation. Your wiring should look similar to mine except where mine connects to the solid state relay(SSR). You would have a bypass loop where I have my SSR wiring running.
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F7glk4Pr.jpg&hash=3b157db3e9b83ff7d08745ebeddc9c2a64acdaca)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FL9YHrvH.jpg&hash=735090e4315790b7cae707844e2d0a539a4b3cae)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FiJFoKjB.jpg&hash=678d5cefee3cd96c45edb0a48b1f9b54db6974a5)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FUeKsxbP.jpg&hash=659a2682b190f2796dd176194c60e527a2fbef43)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FVucksav.jpg&hash=d3576263ad7b2f2df7fdd35de20d27a55f885625)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FitgncXZ.jpg&hash=d2d04bad8bbd6bcecc0d78422d25e3b6ba6fba75)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FDRIrxrj.jpg&hash=6c6a782d1fa0db88467c856ecf226fa0ecf62724)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2F5jbmB0U.jpg&hash=3bc2d18b091c438dc6e598362f25ef42172d0325)
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FRGmla5C.jpg&hash=bb3121cf456ab4007b2426f671e061b2b10ab294)
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Tony, my head is spinning. That went totally over my head. I thought I had it right from the schematic you linked, but these pictures are confusing me. I am going to check them out again in the morning when I can look with a fresh perspective. Thanks for the advice.
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Bill-
The schematic should be the same except for my two (black) wires going from the switch to the relay on the bottom of my smoker. You would have a loopback (aka bypass) wire at the switch between those terminals. I made some edits in the photo below so you can see what I'm talking about. The blue line means connect these wires together (That would be your loop or bypass wire). This is equivalent to the red wire in the photos where you found the paper schematic posted by CUTiger80. The rest of the wiring should be the same as you see in my pictures (through the switch).
(https://www.smokinitforums.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi.imgur.com%2FBFLzNBy.jpg&hash=64a1aaa70fc2b5fa35a4b5a4817e7e28d96c7259)
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Maybe I just need to re-read your post, Tony, but I'm curious why the relay? Can't a switch be installed without that? I don't recall any of our other "switchers" using a relay. I'm here to learn! ;)
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Tony, the Solid State Relay (SSR) is used to take the pulse width modulated signals from my heatermeter (low DC voltage) and convert them to Alternate Current (AC) signals that regulate the heating element control/power level. I'm pretty sure you have something like this inside of your Auber box (maybe just looks a little different). Have you opened up your Auber box before? Take some photos if you do open it up some time. The rest of you guys use a "loop" wire in bypass mode because that is what allows the AC current to flow and be 100% regulated by your Auber device. The only difference is that you plug the smoker into the Auber and then the Auber into the wall socket. My smoker power coord is always plugged into the wall socket. Then, I just hook up my HeaterMeter to a 12VDC power supply (or battery pack) and plug the Cat5 Ethernet cable into it along with thermocouple and however many other probes I want to use.
When I do my brisket here tonight or tomorrow I'll try to take some pictures that show what this setup looks like for clarity purposes.
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Going to get the duct tape, Tony...my head just exploded. ???
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;D
Anyone around here tried smoking brains?
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My head exploded last night. Now I know how my father felt when he would call to say the VCR wouldn't work because the clock light was blinking after a storm and I would have to try to walk him through it long distance.
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Sorry Bill. I hope you were able to pick up the pieces from the explosion and make sense of everything after a good nights rest. The great part of the internet is ability to share pictures and video. That really helps when walking things through long distance.
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OK, I've now done 3 smokes since the initial setup. I wasn't completely satisfied with the 1st one. When I did the second I discovered I had the switch clicked in the wrong position and had the Auber controlling the stock unit. The 2nd and 3rd smokes have been with the Auber in full control and have been working exactly as I wanted with this setup.
I am currently running a 4th smoke with 2 pork butts that were brined according to Tony's directions and also injected for ha ha's. They have been holding temps with basically no fluctuation the entire smoke. They have been in since around 9:00 last night, through the stall, and are about 5 degrees shy of done.
The 3rd smoke I did was Dave's pork loin to Canadian bacon. Super easy and the best I've ever had. Kudos to Superdave.
The only smoke that has been a "meh" was bb ribs. That was not predictable because I inadvertently had the stock controller in charge and had a lot of temp fluctuations. When using the Auber and the meat temp probe things have been perfect. Got to figure how to use the Auber meat probe with ribs.
Thanks again guys for the help with setting this up and for the great recipes. Can't wait to try bellies and doing sausage.
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So good to hear everything is coming together, Coach! That's what we're all about around here!
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Finished the 2 pork butts--finally. Boy, was I off on timing. I thought they were cooking fast, but I was wrong. There were actually 2 stalls. The last 10 degrees took a looooong time. For 16-17 lbs they were probably right on time. They hit 195 at 33hrs. There was zero cabinet temp fluctuation whenever I checked. None. At 195 the Auber ratcheted down to 140 as programmed, but I pulled the butts at 195 and double foiled and into a cooler. Two hrs later I got the bear claws and pulled. Unbelievably moist and tasted great. Brining is definitely the way to go. Thanks again Tony. Two butts in the full size Briner worked well.
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Glad you liked it, Bill - thanks! But, wow, 33 hours for 2 butts? What temp did you set at? Unless you have them jammed together, they should smoke like a single butt. You might try 240 for 2 next time, and see if you can get a more reasonable time.
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Yeah, my initial reaction was that was a long time, but when I thought about it I wasn't so sure. They were a mirror image in size and shape, total weight between 16-17 lbs, about an inch separation, at 225. That works out to about 2 hrs a lb. I do think the next time I do multiple butts I will set at 235, maybe 240.
In any case, the results were very good.