Smokin-It User Forum!
Problems and Troubleshooting => Having a problem? Look Here First, or Post Your Question! => Topic started by: gmr3 on February 22, 2016, 10:55:07 AM
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Hello, I have a Model #1 smoker. Been enjoying it for a number of years now (5+). Recently, I went to turn it on, and it tripped the GFCI outlet. This is the same outlet I've been using for years now. I've plugged other electronics into the outlet with no issue, so I'm pretty sure it's something with the smoker. Any thoughts on what to check or look for?
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Likely it is the ground fault plug itself. I don't know why but the do fail.I have had to replace a few over the years.
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+1 on Brian's thought. Down here in the Keys with the heat, humidity and salty atmosphere I replace all my outdoor GFCIs on a fairly regular basis. Before you do that you should do some diagnostics(I suspect that you already have):
1. Reset the GFCI, plug in the SI and see if you can replicate the fault.
2. If yes then reset the GFCI and plug in an appliance using the same or greater amount of watts. If this trips you have a bad GFCI. If it doesn't then replace the GFCI anyway
3. Plug in your #1. If it trips then you have an issue with the SI.
In this case my guess is that you have got water in the insulation which is giving you a problem.
Take off the back and let it dry out.
Hope this helps.
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5 years with a model 1?? Congrats! Too bad it took you that long to find us here! ;) Glad you finally did, though!
I've seen power wires break, if you've ever snagged the cord (even if you didn't realize it). If you don't have luck with the plug, I'd remove the screws holding the back panel on and inspect the power cord. Wear rubber gloves; it's full of 3 layers of fiberglass insulation! Check the connections where the hi-temp wire plug into the power cord. Also, check for moisture inside.
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Hi all, thanks for the responses so far. I don't know if this information changes anything - and I should have included it in my initial post - but, the smoker plugs in to an exterior dry box that is a "standard" (aka, not GFCI) outlet. When I turn it on, the light stays on for maybe a second or two before it loses power. The GFCI outlet that is tripped is in the garage.
Assuming that doesn't change the recommendation of changing out the GFCI, can someone give me an idea of how involved that process is ?
I guess the other obvious thing I could do is plug the smoker into a different outlet - maybe the dry box on the front side of the house and see if that makes a difference.
Again - thanks all for your help so far. Greatly appreciated as I really miss my smoker!
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There only needs to be one gfci outlet on each "individual" circuit, which tells me that the dry box plug that you use is on the same circuit as the gfci in your garage. Try a different circuit altogether with your SI, and that will tell you if it's your SI, or a circuit issue. Hope that helps. .
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I guess the other obvious thing I could do is plug the smoker into a different outlet - maybe the dry box on the front side of the house and see if that makes a difference.
Yes! Please do! First course of troubleshooting...try a different plug to isolate if it's the smoker or your plug.
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If you still can't find a fix, you could try removing your element and putting it in your oven at 250 degrees for a couple of hours.
I had this happen with my old Big Chief smoker and that is what the Big Chief tech support told me to do. Evidently I got some moisture in the element that was causing the short. After doing this the smoker worked for a couple more years at which point I did have to buy a new element.
The other option is to just order a new element right away and be done with it. You can get a new #1 element for $25.99 with free standard shipping.
Also, I agree with Tony. 5 years and it took a problem for you to find us? :) Let's get your smoker fixed and get you integrated into this great group of guys and gals.
Welcome from ND!
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Gregg, I don't know that a bad element would cause a breaker to trip. I would guess that it just wouldn't get hot any more. Not sure, though...just thinking out loud.
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My element had gotten moisture in it which is what was causing the breaker trip. The heating in the oven was to remove the moisture. It worked for awhile after the oven treatment. But, eventually kept tripping my breaker and I got tired of removing the element and messing with it.
I had let it sit outside in a pouring rain for several days and I think that is what caused my problem.
Remember this was all with my Big Chief. So, I am not sure that the same thing could/would happen with an SI element.
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Good to know, Gregg. I was just wondering.
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Hi all,
Over the weekend, I plugged it into a different outlet on a different circuit, and the GFCI tripped. So, I'm pretty sure it's something with the smoker.
Next, I inspected the chord, and removed the back panel. I didn't see anything to indicate there was any moisture in the back - all the insulation was dry, wires appeared fine, etc.
At that point, I figured it was likely the heating element, so I removed it, and ordered a replacement. I thought about putting in the oven as suggested, but figured for $26, I might as well just replace it and hope for the best.
Thanks for your help,
George
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You'll be getting a bigger element, George! Yours was a 350w, and the new ones are 400w....win/win all around! That extra 50 watts does make a difference!
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Hi Tony, please forgive my ignorance, but how does that extra 50 watts help?
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Hi Tony, please forgive my ignorance, but how does that extra 50 watts help?
It will get hotter much quicker and then won't have to work as hard to maintain temperature.
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Hi Tony, please forgive my ignorance, but how does that extra 50 watts help?
Andy's already given you the right answer, so I'll just add my 2¢... My #1 came with the 350w element. When Steve was about to convert to the 400w version, he had me test it in mine. 50 watts doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the #1. It will heat much faster, and time to cook temp is everything, in my book. Let us know if you find the same thing I did!
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Hi Tony, please forgive my ignorance, but how does that extra 50 watts help?
Andy's already given you the right answer, so I'll just add my 2¢... My #1 came with the 350w element. When Steve was about to convert to the 400w version, he had me test it in mine. 50 watts doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference in the #1. It will heat much faster, and time to cook temp is everything, in my book. Let us know if you find the same thing I did!
Tony.......how does one become a "tester?" Sounds like something I could definitely do!!
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Tony.......how does one become a "tester?" Sounds like something I could definitely do!!
Not really sure, Andy! Just kind of "happened," back in the early days. I'm just fortunate to be a part of the R&D team, and it's been a hoot! Being a part of the forum is the best part, though. If Steve's looking for another tester, I'll forward your name! Of course, there is a line in front of you.... ;)
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Tony.......how does one become a "tester?" Sounds like something I could definitely do!!
Not really sure, Andy! Just kind of "happened," back in the early days. I'm just fortunate to be a part of the R&D team, and it's been a hoot!
Yes, I bet it is!
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Over the weekend, I replaced the heating element with the new one, and I think that did the trick. Unfortunately, I didn't have the time or the food for a real test, but it powered on for a good 5 minutes with no issues, so I'm pretty confident it's fixed! Thanks everyone for the help!