Smokin-It User Forum!
Auber PID Controllers => Auber Instructions => Topic started by: DivotMaker on March 22, 2014, 04:59:03 PM
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I installed a fixed (permanent) Auber temperature probe in the SI-X2 today. This probe has a nylon base, so it's supposed to insulate the temperature probe from the "heat sink" effect of the stainless steel wall of the smoker.
To install the probe, you must first remove the back cover of the smoker, and take out the 3 layers of insulation. This is an itchy job, so wear disposable nitrile or latex gloves!
Auber recommends installing the probe as high as possible in the smoker. It should be under the highest shelf. Since we can move our racks into a high or low position, I found the spot below the highest setting. This is about 3" from the top of the smoker (inside).
You must drill a 5/16" hole for the probe. I recommend a sharp drill bit, oil, slow speed, and lots of pressure to get this hole drilled. Stainless steel is tough to drill, but can be done. You have to put your weight in it, so don't be shy.
You'll notice, in the picture of the probe, that the threaded shank is quite long. It's designed for a Bradley, I believe, so it's long enough to go through both walls. Since there's about 3" of space from the back wall of the SI to the cover plate, this won't work. I used a 1" nylon spacer on the probe before inserting in the hole. This worked well, and the result was a clean "probe-only" installation.
I poked a hole in the first layer of insulation, and fed the wire through it. The second layer has a large notch at the top, so I just went over that one. The third layer needed a hole.
I goofed on this one, and drilled too large of a hole in the back cover! I had bought a 3/8" x 5/8" rubber grommet for the back. The plug on the probe is 3/8" wide. Not thinking that the 5/8" OD on the grommet was the actual outside dimension, I grabbed a 5/8" drill and went to town. Oops. Had to make a quick trip to get a larger grommet. :-[ I ended up with a 3/4" x 7/16" grommet. It will work, but I should have drilled a 1/2" hole.
I'm testing the new sensor now, with a "simulated" 225 cook, and running an autotune on the Auber. I'll let you know how that goes.
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Nice install.
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Thanks Dave. It seems to be a solid unit, and should bring a new level of consistency to the Auber cooks. Probe placement has been a hot topic, so having the unit tuned to the same location should be a good thing. As always, I'll keep all posted on the results.
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I've now used the permanent probe on 2 long smokes, and am very impressed. First, it's very consistent due to the placement (exactly the same place, every time), and the autotune on the Auber performs better than ones I've done with the removable probe. It holds temps within 1 degree consistently. This is probably due to the size and accuracy of the probe, as compared to the removable one.
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3 more smokes done with the fixed probe, and I am very impressed! First, there's no guessing on where to place the removable probe, or letting it interfere with the autotune results. Second, it's always in exactly the same spot, so the results are predictable. Temps have been within 1 degree on every smoke using the fixed probe. If you have an Auber, this is definitely a good investment, and will simplify an already easy process!
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Good read. I am doing this tonight. Not thrilled about working with the insulation and drilling again.
Question..... Why such a large hole on back cover plate? Was that needed just to feed the connector through?
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The large hole was a mistake. From the first post:
"I goofed on this one, and drilled too large of a hole in the back cover! I had bought a 3/8" x 5/8" rubber grommet for the back. The plug on the probe is 3/8" wide. Not thinking that the 5/8" OD on the grommet was the actual outside dimension, I grabbed a 5/8" drill and went to town. Oops. Had to make a quick trip to get a larger grommet. I ended up with a 3/4" x 7/16" grommet. It will work, but I should have drilled a 1/2" hole."
However, it's been pointed out that the smarter move is to route the wire along one of the power wires, and out through the same hole as the power cord! (Duh!). Still can't believe I didn't think of this! If I install another one, that's what I'll do.
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Easy install. Thanks!!!!
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Whew, took me a while. Is this the probe?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_29&products_id=99
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I meant to type this last week... Having been about the fifth time I've modified my unit... This only took me about 35 minutes... Not as fast as a nascar pit stop... But unfortunately I have become good at tweaking the unit.
In all seriousness... Without the good instructions it would have taken me twice as long!
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Yep, that's the probe. I think Tony (Divot) used this one. Should be easy.
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Whew, took me a while. Is this the probe?
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_29&products_id=99 (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_29&products_id=99)
That's it!
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Great Tony, it's the one I got! Oh, the other thing, Steve took care of it.
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Great Tony, it's the one I got! Oh, the other thing, Steve took care of it.
That's cool! Confident you made the right decision on a company? ;)
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So far so good!
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Tony, 3/8" or 1/2" or 5/16" hole for the probe - those are the 3 sizes I see posted. What is the correct size for the probe hole (drill bit)?
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Tony, 3/8" or 1/2" or 5/16" hole for the probe - those are the 3 sizes I see posted. What is the correct size for the probe hole (drill bit)?
As stated in the original post:
You must drill a 5/16" hole for the probe.
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Thanks, I busted out with the calipers...almost done. Just trying to find the spades. Might have to run to the Shack.
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The Shack might even have a 2-blade connector. I made mine out of wire and connectors because I had them on hand.
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I hate buying when I know I got them. They are in the garage somewhere - I put them there when I unloaded my work truck. I'll find them later on down the road. Anyway, waiting for it to auto tune. How long did it take youz guyz? It's been an hour so far the "AT" is still flashing and didn't stop at 140 yet.
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NICE! I haven't been here in a while but was thinking of this forum after I threw a couple of butts on.... so... in your opinion is the auberin worth it? Can you notice any difference in the end result?
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I am having a hellova time tuning it. It is not doing what it should be doing as per the instructions. It is getting very frustrating. :o
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NICE! I haven't been here in a while but was thinking of this forum after I threw a couple of butts on.... so... in your opinion is the auberin worth it? Can you notice any difference in the end result?
Hey Jerz, good to see you back! The Auber, imo, is definitely worth it! You can achieve the same end results without it, but it adds a level of precision, and customization, that is hard to do with the stock controller. The 6 programmable steps are incredible! It makes a great smoker even better.
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I am having a hellova time tuning it. It is not doing what it should be doing as per the instructions. It is getting very frustrating. :o
What are you having trouble with, Ernie?
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I am spending more time in trying to get it to work than I am smoking. The first controller and/or element wasn’t getting the right temp, not getting over 185 degrees. You sent new guts out and the controller is definitely fried. It was like this out of the box – pic enclosed. Okay, then I do the PID bypass – all went well, until I plugged it in. The programming instructions are incorrect or the Auber is a lemon too. My display (on the Auber) never stopped on “AT at 140” (as per your instructions on your site). When it first started, it was at “AT and 80” flashing NOT “AT and 140” (as per your instructions). When it stopped flashing, it was at “225 and 2.5.” I followed the directions to the “T” – from the initial programming of the PID (CO1…CO2…CO33 blah blah) to simulating a smoke with the bricks, holes not blocked, drip tray in place…yada yada. This is the 4th of July and is the 3rd smoke I had to back out of because of this SI #3. I am very frustrated and have had it with it. Please send an RMA so I can send everything back.
I am returning it. I'm done.
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I am spending more time in trying to get it to work than I am smoking. The first controller and/or element wasn’t getting the right temp, not getting over 185 degrees. You sent new guts out and the controller is definitely fried. It was like this out of the box – pic enclosed. Okay, then I do the PID bypass – all went well, until I plugged it in. The programming instructions are incorrect or the Auber is a lemon too. My display (on the Auber) never stopped on “AT at 140” (as per your instructions on your site). When it first started, it was at “AT and 80” flashing NOT “AT and 140” (as per your instructions). When it stopped flashing, it was at “225 and 2.5.” I followed the directions to the “T” – from the initial programming of the PID (CO1…CO2…CO33 blah blah) to simulating a smoke with the bricks, holes not blocked, drip tray in place…yada yada. This is the 4th of July and is the 3rd smoke I had to back out of because of this SI #3. I am very frustrated and have had it with it. Please send an RMA so I can send everything back.
I am returning it. I'm done.
Contact Steve on Monday. Thanks for stopping by, and good luck to you.
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I am spending more time in trying to get it to work than I am smoking. The first controller and/or element wasn’t getting the right temp, not getting over 185 degrees. You sent new guts out and the controller is definitely fried. It was like this out of the box – pic enclosed. Okay, then I do the PID bypass – all went well, until I plugged it in. The programming instructions are incorrect or the Auber is a lemon too. My display (on the Auber) never stopped on “AT at 140” (as per your instructions on your site). When it first started, it was at “AT and 80” flashing NOT “AT and 140” (as per your instructions). When it stopped flashing, it was at “225 and 2.5.” I followed the directions to the “T” – from the initial programming of the PID (CO1…CO2…CO33 blah blah) to simulating a smoke with the bricks, holes not blocked, drip tray in place…yada yada. This is the 4th of July and is the 3rd smoke I had to back out of because of this SI #3. I am very frustrated and have had it with it. Please send an RMA so I can send everything back.
I am returning it. I'm done.
For the rest of you out there, let me clarify a couple of things in this posting. First, I addressed the error of the left window displaying the box temp and "At" when you enter the autotune mode in the "Autotune Instructions" post; this will be corrected shortly, but not today. It will not initially display 140, but will display the current box temp. Next, Big Fish mentioned that he was at "225 and 2.5" when it stopped flashing the "At;" This is about where it should have stopped! That means it figured-out the settings while it was 2.5 hours into the smoke, at a stable temp of 225. His misunderstanding that this was, in fact, what he wanted, has led to his frustration and confusion. I've attempted to reach out to Ernie to help, but there is no reasoning with some people.
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Tony,
I think you have done all you can from a forum perspective. You are to be commended.
I see Ernie aka Big Fish is a guest now.
Dave
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Thanks Dave - that means a lot, coming from you! Patience only goes so far... ;)
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Installed the permanent probe this afternoon. Easy process thanks to all the info and pictures posted here. Completed the autotune on the Auber afterward. Ready to go for my next smoke now. Got a couple turkey breasts I want to try tomorrow.
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Cool Dean! You'll love the spot-on reliability of the perm probe!
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Does the probe get in the way when you are cooking a large brisket or multiple pork butts? It just seems to protrude a long way into the cabinet....
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Hey Tony,
In your instructions from the initial post you wrote:
Auber recommends installing the probe as high as possible in the smoker. It should be under the highest shelf. Since we can move our racks into a high or low position, I found the spot below the highest setting. This is about 3" from the top of the smoker (inside).
However, in your pictures it appears that the probe is slightly above the shelf. Is it just my eyes or the angle of the picture that is making it appear to me that your probe is about 1" above the top rack?
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However, in your pictures it appears that the probe is slightly above the shelf. Is it just my eyes or the angle of the picture that is making it appear to me that your probe is about 1" above the top rack?
Gregg, I tried to adapt Auber's instructions, that were intended for a Bradley smoker. If the side racks are in the top position, the probe is just below the top shelf. In the lower position, it is just above the top shelf. Next wall probe I install will be about an inch from the top of the inside box. That way, it will read the stable air at the top, and not interfere with anything on the top rack.
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OK, I think I understand now.
I'm planning on doing this some day. So I just was trying to understand.
I think it would be a great idea to move the probe up even higher. Thanks for the suggestion/recommendation.
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I think I may be missing some info. Do you also disconnect the factory analog probe or does that stay in and you just set the factory dial to 250?
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Using the bypass effectively disables the stock temp dial.
If you add the rocker switch option, you can switch back and forth between the bypass and the analog thermostat.
If/when I ever get an Auber, I will be adding the rocker switch option, so that I can switch to the stock configuration if I am having a problem with my Auber or if it is raining and I don't want my Auber to get wet.
Technically, you can use an Auber without doing the bypass by just cranking it all the way up and then letting the Auber control the element from there. The benefit of the bypass is to allow your Auber to control the element without any intervention from the stock controller which still has a max temp of 250 degrees. If you bypass, your Auber will not be restricted by the stock controller and will allow you to go above 250 degrees, which is great from poultry.
Hopefully this hasn't muddied the waters even further.
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I think I may be missing some info. Do you also disconnect the factory analog probe or does that stay in and you just set the factory dial to 250?
I need a little clarification on what you're asking, in order to answer correctly. When you say "factory analog probe," do you mean the temperature sensor in the back of the smoker? I'm thinking that's what you mean, but want to clarify. "Analog" threw me off. The "Factory dial" you mentioned refers to what we call the "analog" controller, or "factory controller." Not meaning to split hairs here, just wanting to clarify what your understanding is - this whole digital thing can get a bit confusing at times!
I think I know what you're asking, so I'll try to answer, as best I can:
First, there are 2 ways to use the Auber PID. One way is to not modify the smoker at all, just plug the Auber in, set the dial (factory controller) to 250, and let the Auber control the smoker through the factory analog controller. There is no need to modify, or disconnect, the temperature probe in the back of the smoker.
The second way (personally preferred) is to "bypass" the stock controller, and let the Auber run the show. I find this to be the optimal setup, should you choose to use the Auber, because it takes one point of failure out of the equation - the 250°-limited stock controller. This allows the Auber to take the temp higher than 250, and it is not impeded by the stock controller. Not saying that the stock controller is bad, it's just that it becomes the "middle man" in the setup - unnecessary. If you're springing for an Auber, let it do what it does best - be in control! I also think it doesn't really like competition. lol.
If this is not what you are asking, please clarify for me, so I can better help!
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THANKS!
You guys hit it on the head, what I was trying to ask is if you "bypass" the stock controller..... I like the idea of being able to get a slightly higher temp as well, not to mention the Auber is designed to be accurate - may as well let it do its thing. My smoker is in out of the rain anyway.
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You're welcome, Big! Thought that's what you were asking.
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I am confused and very nervous about buying the Auber and drilling through my Model #3.
- What size hole needs to be drilled and to be sure, just through the inner cabinet correct?
I am asking because the picture looks like the wire is coming out the Back of the smoker.
- Is the wire from the temp probe long enough to run down the inside of the cabinet and out where the power cord comes in and then up to the back of the actual Auber? It seems it would have to be a super long wire.
Thnx
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No worries, Fish! The interior hole is 5/16". I ran my cord out the back because I actually didn't think of running out the bottom with the power cord! :-[ The cord on the sensor is 5' long, so yes, it will reach. The plug on the new-style sensor is the 1/4" stereo plug, so the housing is bigger. What that means is that you'll likely have to remove the power cord to get it through the hole, then replace the cord. It attaches with spade connectors, so it's not a big deal.
I think the permanent probe is well-worth the effort, if you have an Auber.
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Tony,
I bit the bullet today and ordered the Auber with the permanent installed temperature probe. I noticed in your original post that you indicated that you used a 1" spacer on the back side of the probe so that only the probe itself protruded into the smoker. What did you use for the spacer? In the photo, it looks like another piece of nylon. I'm guessing that a piece of copper tubing or a bunch of 5/16" metal washers would also work.
Also, in a later post, you or someone indicated that if you had to do over you would put the temperature probe up at about 1" from the top of the smoker (ceiling). Is that still your thought?
One other question about the smoker itself. You indicated in your original post of this modification that the side racks can be place in two positions. Mine has holes in the racks like yours does, but the pegs that protrude from the sides of the smoker are angled up at such a steep angle that I can't lift the racks up high enough (they hit the top of the smoker) to let them hang from the lower holes. Another words, I can't put the racks at the highest position. Now it is possible that I can take some pliers and bend the pegs down some, but I don't want to chance breaking the weld loose. The other options is to grind off some of the tops of the racks so that it will slip over the holes before hitting the top of the smoker. I guess my question is, how often do you put your racks at this higher position and is it worth worrying about? (If this is unclear, I can take some photos and post them to illustrate what I am talking about.)
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Ravel, my siderails are hard to fit in to because of the angled pegs. If I really work it, I can get it in, but it does not hang right until I slide some shelves in.
I am going take the Dremel to my side rails some day as I don't think it is going to take a whole lot to make this more usable.
However, when I have put my side rails up high, I always moved them back down because I thought the top shelf was too high. The only time, I can see needing it to be that high is when smoking Snack Stix or Jerky that would fit on the top shelf.
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I'm curious about the probe placement. In doing many temp tests, it seems like the box temp around the center of the box is generally a lower temp than the top of the box. I assume because the meat is acting like a heat sink. Do I really want to control the temp where I don't have meat vs. where I do?
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I haven't done any testing, but from what others have said, the temperature is more stable toward the top of the box verses the bottom. That is why most are putting their permanent probe toward the top.
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For those that have done the permanent probe, did you feel that the homemade spacer on the backside was necessary?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA_O591nGnU
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I am still confused about the best location for the probe.
In previous posts by Tony, he indicated that he would put the probe about 1" from the top of the smoker (if he had to do over again).
In the Youtube video posted by Ed (with a link provided in the previous post by SuperDave), he mounted the probe 4-3/4" below the top of the inner cabinet which puts the probe about 3/4" below the top rack.
Wondering what you guys that have installed this before have done and what your results have been.
I don't want to have to drill multiple holes in my cabinet when I install this thing in the next couple of days.
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I am curious about this too, I have not installed mine as of yet....
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Since so much of smoking is taking a course of action and making adjustments in the next smoke, I'm not sure 4" is something to micro manage over. IMO, the baseline is what we go by so either of those placements will establish a consistent baseline that we learn to predict our smokes from.
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Dave,
You are sure waxing philosophical today!!
As an engineer, I know what you mean. Sometimes we get bogged down in details that, in the long run, probably don't matter. But, that kind of stuff just pops into our left-brain and sometimes it is very difficult to get out (just ask my wife).
Thanks for aligning our compass!!
I think that I will mount mine up high (like 1" from the top) because, if nothing else, it will be less likely to interfere with anything that I smoke.
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So, are you guys going to use the spacer like the video or go full penetration?
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Tony,
Any further detail on the 1" nylon spacer? Where did you purchase it & did it come with a hole in it or did you drill it & what size ID? Would a 1" long socket from a ratchet work as a spacer? I will be receiving an Auber for Christmas & am trying to get the parts together to permanently mount the thermocouple with the missile launcher switch.
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I agree with you Dave. I plan 1" from the top as well for the same reason, to keep clear of any possible meat. I do intend on useing the spacer.
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Walt, the socket should absolutely work. I'm going to use a couple SS nuts with a washer at each end.
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I just received my Auber and temperature probe and, although I have not started the install yet, I plan to use a spacer of some type to minimize the projection of the probe into the smoker box.
The threaded portion of the probe is 5/16" diameter. I am hoping that I have a piece of 5/16" ID copper tubing that I can cut to length for a spacer. If not, I will stack several 5/16" washers to create a spacer of the correct thickness. The socket idea should work also, but I certainly don't have any spare sockets laying around. I believe that a piece of hardwood (like maple or ash) would work, but I'm not sure that I want to take a chance on it getting hot enough to start smoldering inside the back wall of the SI.
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CUTiger, copper and stainless create a dissimilar metal reaction?
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I have a drawer full of misfit sockets.
Wrt the tabs that hold the rack supports, there was a thread on that topic many months ago. This sounds like a common issue with regards to quality control. Something Steve needs to address with his manufacturer. I ground mine down with an angle grinder months ago but have NEVER actually used the higher position.
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I wonder if it would be wise to place the probe 1" from the top and midway from the side and the middle to stay as clear as possible from the smoke hole?
Just thinking out loud.
I like the idea of placing the probe up high because there are several smokes where I am not using the top rack and the permanent probe if placed below the top rack could be right up against the meat.
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This is kind of what I was thinking.
Thoughts?
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I, too, like the offset of center idea. With my #4 and 11 rack locations, I'm a little less concerned about top tier food interference. I might drop down the 4" - 5" just to insure full air circulation around the probe.
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Sweet baby cheeses! Sorry I'm behind on this one! Looks like an engineers convention gone wild! lol.
Now, I really think you all are way over-thinking this! Here's the deal - Auber recommends the probe be as high as possible, but recommends the location I used in my instructions, based on the Bradley. After practical use, I realize that is too low...it interferes, at times, with the meat. So, I would place it about 1" from the top, dead center. I disagree with the offset, that some have proposed, as I think you run the risk of air pockets or unstable heat toward the sides (I agree with Auber on this one).
As for the spacer: I liked nylon, with a 5/16" ID, because that's what the base of the probe is, and is not subject to deterioration like metal. Metal might also re-introduce the effect that nylon counters - heat sink (that's why they use nylon for the base).
So, install the probe 1" from the top, dead center, then do an autotune. Problem solved, and great temps to follow!
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Where did you find the elusive 1 inch nylon spacer with a 5/16" ID hole?
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Where did you find the elusive 1 inch nylon spacer with a 5/16" ID hole?
Tractor Supply, Walt. Lowe's has them, too, in the specialty hardware drawers.
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Tony,
Your "wake up alarm" timing was perfect (kind of). I am going to install my probe and autotune today. I was already going to stop at Lowes and do some more "engineering" to find a spacer made of nylon. I had thought to myself just this morning that the metal spacer may not be best for the very reason that you gave. I will report back with more specific information on what I find at Lowes and/or Tractor Supply.
But don't blame us engineers for trying to make this install "perfect". That is what we do. We all blame you. If you had not been asleep at the wheel with all of this knowledge bottled up, we would not have had to think this out so hard. LOL
As always, thanks for your help!!
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The spacer is optional, no? If the spacer wasn't used, would the nylon piece on the probe actually be in the smoker box?
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The spacer is optional, no? If the spacer wasn't used, would the nylon piece on the probe actually be in the smoker box?
Dave, the threaded section is really long - designed to go through the double-wall of the Bradley smoker. You don't have to install a spacer, but you won't be happy with the results. That extra inch of threads, sticking out from the back of the smoker wall, is unsightly and gets in the way! I did it that way first, and found myself running to Lowe's for the spacer!
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I found the spacer at Lowes in the specialty hardware drawer marked Nylon something. I bought the switch from Amazon for about $7 including shipping. I Will post pictures & links later. The hardest part is getting the probe conductor & power wire through the same cord grip. I gave up @10:00 last night. Will attack again this morning. May decide to drill another hole (yuk) instead of take the chance on damaging the probe conductor.
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Which switch did you go with, Tiger?
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Below is the link to the switch. It is a common DPDT panel mount 2-position toggle switch with screw terminals rated for 15A.
I did end up drilling another hole in the bottom for the temperature probe wire in order to provide separation between it and the power. Made for an overall cleaner installation IMO.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K858QG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I installed the permanent probe and the controller bypass this past weekend. I will address the temperature probe in this post and the bypass in the appropriate category "How to bypass the analog controller".
I have posted photos below showing several steps in the process.
I decided to place the probe 1-3/4" below the top of the box near the center (see photo). This was mainly because the metal tends to be harder near the bend where it transitions from back to top. I removed the smoker door and latches (they lift straight up) and placed the smoker on its front to have more leverage when drilling. I used a center punch to indent the sheet metal and drilled a smaller pilot hole first and then the 5/16" hole. Let the drill turn slowly and be patient because this stainless is hard. I also used a cutting oil to keep the bit cooler, but regular motor oil will work.
I bought nylon spacers from Lowes in the Speciality Hardware section. They were in a drawer marked Nylon something (don't remember exactly). The photos below show the package (front & back).
After installing the probe in the back wall, I decided to drill another hole in the bottom for the probe cable. I tried briefly to fit the cable in with the power cord but it was too tight for my liking and I was afraid that the probe cable would become pinched. Also, I am not a big fan of running control or sensor cable with power. If you decide to go this route, you will need to make sure that the hole you drill is at least as large as the connector on the probe. You should also install a rubber grommet (also available from Lowes in one of the Speciality Hardware drawers) in the hole to prevent the cable from being damaged by the edge of the stainless. (Note that in the photo below the smoker is turned top down so that the drilling is easier).
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Nice install, Ravel!
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I did the same installation as Ravel. Very simple. Parts list as follows:
1 Permanent Mount temperature probe
1 1" long nylon spacer with at least a 5/16" ID
1 1/2" titanium drill bit (used to drill the exit hole for the probe)
1 1/2" rubber grommet (for the hole you drill so the sharp edges wont dammage the
wire that us fed through. The hole needs to be 1/2" so the RCA plug can fit through)
1 5/16" drill bit (I placed the hole 1" from the top and slightly to the left of the center
support like the picture above of CUTiger)
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Good job, Walt! Let us know how it works out.
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So, who owns the record for most drill bits required to install their permanent temp probe? I broke 4 small bits and went through another 4 or 5 getting a hole punched through the box and the back panel. The most definitive lesson to date with the new smoker is that I never want to drill another hole in this thing again!!!!
BTW, on my model 4, the plug that goes to the Auber required a 7/16" hole to get through the back panel.
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So, who owns the record for most drill bits required to install their permanent temp probe? I broke 4 small bits and went through another 4 or 5 getting a hole punched through the box and the back panel. The most definitive lesson to date with the new smoker is that I never want to drill another hole in this thing again!!!!
BTW, on my model 4, the plug that goes to the Auber required a 7/16" hole to get through the back panel.
Hehe... Yeah, drilling stainless is not for the timid! The key is a center-punched spot to start the drill bit, a new bit, and plenty of machine oil - and lots of pressure! Can't try to "baby" a bit through that stuff!
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FYI,
I made my own spacer out of a piece of composite decking I had in the garage. I'll let you know how it performs.
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The homemade spacer should be fine, Dave - great improvisation! It's mostly nylon/plastic, so should be OK I would think.
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I installed my permanent probe today 8) Drilling the stainless was not difficult, and if you take your time and are patient you can get through it easily. I used a punch to mark the hole position and then used a small pilot bit to drill through. I used no oil or special bits!!! It is not necessary in my opinion. It is very important to keep the bit cool, so I drilled for 5-10 seconds, stopped and dipped the bit in a cup of cool water, then continued. I used my basic Milwaukee bits in my battery powered drill. The holes were very easy but, again, take your time and don't rush. The deburring was done with a step bit from each side, drilling just enough to knock the rough edge down.
I took Tony's advice and measured down about an inch from the top...this put me at a spot weld on the center brace (see photos). So I went even higher, about 3/4 of an inch from the ceiling of the inside chamber. This allowed me to clear the spot weld and gave enough clearance to be able to wipe the probe after use.
I drilled out the bottom and added a grommet, again through the recommendations of those before me!!
My bypass switch is a simple DPDT that I mounted on the back panel....if I were to do it again, I would do a top mount as it would be a heckuva lot easier to re-install the insulation. But I already drilled the hole, so I stuck with the plan. I did not get shots of the bypass wiring, but it is as others have posted. I did cable tie the leads together along their length to keep it clean and to help when putting the insulation back in. My bypass wiring was 14 Stranded THHN.
Next step is to get my auber autotuned, get the smoker cured, and then start smoking some meat!!! I will update as I move along!! Thanks to all on these forums for the help for this newb.....
P2B
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Thanks for the pics Gregor! I'll be installing a permanent probe in my smoker soon. Do you think installing the bypass switch on the bottom of the smoker would be doable? I'm thinking that would be a better location because it's out of the weather, don't interfere with the cover, etc... I'm not sure I've heard of anyone trying to do it on the bottom though...
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Tony, a bottom switch installation is certainly doable and would be very easy....I did not think of that. It may also help with anyone inadvertently throwing the switch in the wrong direction. You will most likely need to extend one of the wire leads (the white wire with the black leg to the indicator light...easy enough to do (I did it to give a little room to move). Installing out the back was a pain in the butt as I mentioned due to the insulation and having to maneuver wires, plus the depth of the switch itself required me to slice the insulation to allow the switch to bed into the insulation.
FWIW, a back installation does not interfere with cover...just the insulation.
P2B
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Really nice install, Gregor! Thanks for the fantastic pics, too. This is very helpful to everyone considering this. Make sure to do that autotune!
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Just got done with mine.
The hardware store had everything I needed (and it only took two trips to get it all!):
- 5/16" drill bit
- 7/16" drill bit
- 7/16" rubber grommet
- 5/16" nylon spacer
- longer 6mm screws for mounting the cord hangers
- fender washers for the longer cord hanger screws
I decided to go about 2" below the top, dead center through the vertical support in the back of the smoker. It should give me a good reading as well as stay out of the way for 99% of what we smoke. I also decided to bypass the stock controller while I was in there, when I have buddies over who are better at electrical than me (I really don't need to be touching that stuff) we'll put in a toggle switch for bypass or stock controller function.
Auto-tune is running now, we'll see how long this takes. Fish is thawing, looking like it is going to be a good weekend.
Thanks guys for all the great info on the site. I spent way longer than I needed to poking around the site, but it sure made the modifications quick and easy once my #2 finally arrived.
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Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL! If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle?
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I'd guess... because he can. The stock probe only sticks out an inch or two because it is mounted horizontally, vs the five to 6 inches the Auber controller sticks out perpendicular to the smoker wall. If it weren't for getting in the way, I'd have mounted lower too.
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Tony, I've got another question for Steve via you. LOL! If everyone on the forum gets convinced that the best place for the probe is the top, why is Steve still mounting the OEM probe in the middle?
I believe it's a matter of tuning. It's a different size probe than the Auber, and is calibrated for the stock analog controller. It reads accurately in its location, so why change it? I'm sure that as the smokers evolve, over time, and the sensor technology improves, we'll probably see a mod. Just keep in mind that a production line change at the factory, like that, is very costly, so I'm sure he would want to be sure of the need. Also, this design goes back way before being involved with Auber, and their insight on where the most stable temp in the box is.
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While doing a couple test smokes last night, I had the temp probe for my Maverick on a lower rack more forwards towards the center front to back. The readings while the box was heating up were as much as 5 degrees different with the Auber reading higher, but once stabilized they were exactly the same. With that I'm done worrying about if I put the probe in the correct location.
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Josh,
I ran the same experiment last weekend, but with an actual "meat load" of 2 whole chickens. I have a SI #2, so I put the top chicken on the second rack position from the top and the bottom chicken on the 4th rack position from the top. My Auber probe is about 2" from the top of the smoker. I put a Maverick probe on the rack next to the bottom chicken (about halfway between the chicken and the side wall). I have compared the Auber & Maverick probes and they usually run pretty close (within a degree or two of each other). I smoked the chickens at 250 degrees and it took about 4 hours before the chickens were done. What I found was that thoughout the entire smoke, the bottom Maverick probe was reading from 15-20 degrees higher than the Auber probe. Consequently, the bottom chicken was done before the top was. I did clip the Maverick probe to the rack with a very small binder clip (which I have done before). I want to try it again by shoving the probe through a small potato and setting it on the rack with the meat to see if that makes a difference.
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Honestly I think the temp difference at the bottom near the heat/smoke source vs the top after the hot air has passed over cool meat - is something which can't actually be avoided and your temp probes were probably reporting accurately. The difference from bottom to top is going to depend on a variety of different variables inside the box, and if you're cooking multiple racks of the same meat you'll either have to deal with variations in doneness or you're going to have to rotate racks during the smoking cycle. This is why I always stack meat as high as possible, generally very close to where my temp probe is.
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Totally agree, Josh. If I do multiple racks, I always put the biggest/thickest on the lower shelves. Seems to just make sense, and always works. ;)
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For those that are having a hard time drilling their holes, I used the 1/2" and 7/16" (for different holes) drill bits from Dewalt. They were the ones of the "Pilot point" series. No small hole pre-drilling. Went through like butter. Bits were even used ones I already had.b Took less than 5 seconds a hole.
Another suggestion I have is to test the temperature accuracy of the probe before you install it. I didn't and have discovered it is off some, so I have to remove and calibrate the Auber for the probe.
Chuck
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Another suggestion I have is to test the temperature accuracy of the probe before you install it. I didn't and have discovered it is off some, so I have to remove and calibrate the Auber for the probe.
And how does one calibrate a probe? :-\
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As per auber:
Turn unit on and have probes in ice water and let temps stabilize. If they don't read 32, the do the adjustment/calibration.
1. Press and hold "set" button till "LCK" is displayed.
2. Input code "155" with + or - buttons then press "set".
3. The left window will show the parameter (SC1 = smoker temp probe, SC2= meat probe) and right window will show temperature adjustment (0 to begin with).
4. If your smoker probe only went to 34 in the ice water, then you would adjust the (0) for SC1 to -2 by using the + or - keys. If it read 30, then you would adjust to a +2.
5. Press "set" to change to SC2 and adjust the same way if you meat probe did not read 32.
6. Press "set" and "out" will be displayed on left and "100" on the right. Leave it.
7. Press "set" and "C-F" will be on the left and "F" should be on the right (F= Fahrenheit, and C= Celsius).
8. Press "set" to return to the base temp probe screen showing temps from both probes. If they were off, now they should read 32.
To find the full details go to pages 14-16 of the manual download.
http://auberins.com/images/Manual/WSD-1500GPH/WSD-1500GPH_v1.0.pdf
Chuck
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WOW. Am using the same bits (new) and they. Are barely getting started after about 10 minutes of drilling. Any suggestions?
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Lay the drilling surface horizontal. Take a center punch and hit it with a hammer on your drill spot. Then pour a small pool of oil in the well made by the center punch.
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took me a half hour of drilling. Then I turned the drill on high and punched through in 10 seconds.
Just go all out and git er done!
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Going to try laying it flat to see if I can get more pressure on it. Have been using a concrete pillar as a backstop but still have the #2 vertical.
Probably should have mentioned that total time must be approaching 60mins. This is my third attempt - new bits and oil each time and all I get is a shallow hole. Great alloys. >:(
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May I butt in? Try either a cobalt or titanium bit and keep the rpms below 300. Like good Q, low and slow. You don't want to generate a lot of heat as the bit will dull quickly. HSS bits will also work, just go slow.
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Thanks Sarge. Will try a cobalt bit. Should be able to find one quickly.
20+ mins. No joy. Off for another bit. Just hope the expense of installing the probe is less than 5X the cost of the probe.
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i kept my #4 standing up and pushed it up against the house to drill into it. I used water to cool the bit. I sharpened the bits when it got dull with a drill doctor I had sitting around but never used.
Like I said, I struggled for a half an hour.. or maybe it was an hour and a half, it was a loong time. Then I just went high speed and punched through. This was with cheap sears bits.
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The permanent probe hole convinced me that I didn't need no stinking switch! :o I'll gladly unscrew the back panel if and when I ever have to go back to the OEM controller.
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The exact same reason i did not install a switch. I just installed the thermal fuse and called it a day
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I spent a lot of time with cobalt bits (smaller size) and they were taking forever. I switched to some "quick start bits" with 135º point and they really got things started good and tore through it quickly (seconds). I was using new bits each time too. Having the fine starting tip to really grab into metal helps get things started and tears through the stainless steel fast.
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Until someone else speaks up, I'm still claiming record for most broken bits.
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Tried titanium. Still no luck. Just going to run auto tne again so I can smoke a brisket tomorrow. Much quicker than multiple trips to get another bit or bits. Anyway I have had great results without the permanent placement for almost a year so will try again later.
BTW only one bit broken but two rendered no-op.
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I used new titanium and mine went right thru no problem. I know it sounds stupid but check to make sure your drill is not running in reverse. I happens some times without you noticing. Good luck.
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DivotMaker--I ordered the wall mounted PID sensor from Auber vice Smokin-it. I noted something that may need to be reported. On the Smokin-it site the only wall mounted PID sensor I saw listed is product code: WS-SENSOR05. On the Auber site it specifically says that this product code will not work on the PID I bought from Smokin-it Product Code: WSD-1200GPH. From Auber site: "Please note, this sensor will not work for the A, B, and G series WS or WSD controllers (model number WS-XXXXA, WS-XXXXAPH, WS-XXXXB, WSD-1200GPH, or WSD-1500GPH). It does not work for Auber SYL series controllers either."
Appears this is true for the PID Smoker Controller, Dual Probes 1800 watts product code/model# WSD-1500GPH.
After more research on the Auber site I found that product code/model number: WS-Sensor11 is the right product for the PID I bought WSD-1200GPH and the WSD-1500GPH.
Just my observations--correct me if I am wrong. Dale
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Good observation, Dale! It's a website error that Steve has to fix. The probes he sells now are the ones for the GPH (large plugs), not the old style. Looks like I need to poke him again about getting this done! ;)
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Thanks Tony--I have been reading a lot on the different forums. Noticed this issue was found earlier. Hope to be smoking by next weekend. :D
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I installed the sensor and bypassed the controller. Thank you for all the great advice in this forum. Sorry no pictures--no way I could out do, or add to what you fine gentlemen have already provided. Will auto tune tomorrow morning--hoping to do my first smoke tomorrow afternoon-venison steaks. Plan is to smoke them at low temperature for purposes of flavor--pull them out and finish on grill. Wish me luck!
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Congrats, Dale! Sounds like you're set up, and have a plan! Be sure to post something about your cook (for drool purposes, of course!). ;)
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congrats on your bypass and conversion! I know I am glad I made the modification and bypass.
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Thanks to all for your help I have now completed my second smoke. This one lasted six hours and my set up required three steps on the Auber. Here is the SMOKE:
http://smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=3285.0
The system worked great. Over shot the 225F temp initially--ramped up to 232F, but cooled back to 225 pretty quick. Once back down to 225 it held steady for over four hours. Very impressed with this system, and thank again for all your guidance and instruction in this forum. Much thanks to Tony, and all that have posted in this Subject forum--could not have done it with out it.
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Glad it's working out for you, Dale! Thanks!
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I got my permanent probe installed today. Thanks to everyone's great advise it was pretty easy. I used some cobalt (material not brand) drill bits that worked fine. I dipped them in cooking oil about every 10-15 seconds or when I saw any smoke. I started with a pilot hole and then went with the 5/16" hole. I started slow but went to high gear and I was through in no time.
I put my probe down about 1-1/2" from the inside top. As mentioned earlier there was a spot weld on the back right at the 1" mark. I used the 1" nylon spacer from Lowes and it worked like a champ.
I drilled another 7/16" hole on the bottom for the cord to go through. Once the grommet was in the connector would not fit. I had to put the connector thought the hole and then push the grommet over the connector and then install the grommet. If I had to do it over I would drill a 1/2" hole and I would of been ok. I have the WSD-1500GPH and the WS-sensor11.
I will do an auto tune tomorrow. Thanks again!
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However, it's been pointed out that the smarter move is to route the wire along one of the power wires, and out through the same hole as the power cord! (Duh!). Still can't believe I didn't think of this! If I install another one, that's what I'll do.
I gave this some thought before installing the permanent PID probe and I really like having the wire run out the back instead of out the bottom. I figured since the meat probe would have to run down the top vent anyway, running the smoker probe straight out the back of the unit keeps the two leads at equal lengths. I also have the smoker sitting next to a prep table that I like to put the Auber PID on while smoking. Running the wire out the back of the cabinet allows me to have more lead length. I did add a wire anchor just in case I ever accidently snag the wire on anything.
Thank you for the write up, it was very helpful for mounting the probe!
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Good idea on the anchor, DL! Nice to have you with us. Be sure and head over to the Introductions section and tell us a little about yourself, and BBQ experience. Also, a first name and town, in your Forum Profile signature line, is nice to see. We're kind of one big family here, so we like to know our new family members!
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Quick question, I have the SI#1 would you suggest mounting the sensor 1 inch from the inside top of the smoker or just below the top rack? I should get my pid next week. And will be doing the modifications then, both the bypass and adding the permanent sensor. I spoke with Auber this morning and mine should ship today. Also was able to change my order am getting the permanent sensor for $2.00 additional charge. I may call Steve this morning and get his thoughts on the mounting area in the #1.
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Quick question, I have the SI#1 would you suggest mounting the sensor 1 inch from the inside top of the smoker or just below the top rack? I should get my pid next week. And will be doing the modifications then, both the bypass and adding the permanent sensor.
I'll be interested to follow the answers on this. With a #1, the space is pretty tight and I'm curious if the pat answer to this question will apply.
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Hey Dave, Read some advice on the Smokin-It site under Instructions. Looks like it was in a #1 and was mounted 3/8 inch under the top rack. I am leaning towards going with an inch from the inside top of the smoker. As I do ribs on the top rack. But, probably for brisket and butts will do the middle rack. Eventually will also get a third rack but not sure what I would smoke there as it will be very close to the smoke box.
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Ribs on the top rack of a #1 is what concerns me about the 1" from the top placement. Ribs laid flat would seem to really block air flow above them and thus block the probe. I'm just an outside observer so that's why I'm interested to see real #1 owners chime in.
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Thanks for the concern Dave, looks like just you and me are talking about this. I even called Steve this morning and have not heard back from him. I did find out the auber shipped today and should have it by the end of the week. So looks like will have some work to do over the weekend. As going to do the bypass switch also. Just not sure about switching cords yet. That maybe be down the road.. Tony did tell me if I needed help he would lend a hand. But, he did not use the auber in his #1. Noticed he now has a 1, 2 and 3. I wonder if he will also get the #4 later. ;D
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Bill, I'll pray for you and the drilling a hole in your smoker. I'm glad that I decided against the bypass switch if that meant drilling another hole. The SS on these babies are like armor. LOL!
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Thanks for the concern Dave, looks like just you and me are talking about this. I even called Steve this morning and have not heard back from him. I did find out the auber shipped today and should have it by the end of the week. So looks like will have some work to do over the weekend. As going to do the bypass switch also. Just not sure about switching cords yet. That maybe be down the road.. Tony did tell me if I needed help he would lend a hand. But, he did not use the auber in his #1. Noticed he now has a 1, 2 and 3. I wonder if he will also get the #4 later. ;D
Bill, go with 1" from the top. Mounting under the top shelf is based on Auber's recommendations for the Auber. Terrible position! If you smoke something like a pork butt, the probe that low is in the way! Ribs will not interfere with it in the #1 (in the high position). You have to cut the racks in two, and you leave space between them, so they won't get against the probe. I have a perm probe for the Little Guy, but just haven't installed it yet. I am confident about the 1" from the top position, though. Most stable heat, and it's up out of the way.
And, no to the #4...Pretty sure that would be way over the top, and I'd definitely have to admit I have a problem, then! ???
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You made me do a belly laugh with the no on the #4 with tears in the eyes. ;D, I will follow your lead and go one inch from the top and around the center of the smoker. I will make a list of parts tomorrow and head to lowe's. Found a full bag of female connectors on the work bench. So may not need to buy them.
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Hehe...I do what I can, Bill! ;)
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Hey All,
Quick question about the permanent Auber temp probe. Is the 1" from the top install recommendation for all models, or only the #1? I have the Model #2 and am considering purchasing an Auber controller. If I do, I'll definitely do the permanent probe installation, and am trying to determine the correct mounting location.
Thanks.
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Pretty sure the 1 inch from the top applies to all smokers. I don't recall reading anything to the contrary.
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Is the 1" from the top install recommendation for all models, or only the #1?
Yes, Will. Not model-specific.
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You need to use a cobalt drill bit. No prep just mark the spot and drill. Took about two minutes.
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I finally relocated the box probe in my 3D today. Suggestions on how to best cover the hole being left behind?
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I finally relocated the box probe in my 3D today. Suggestions on how to best cover the hole being left behind?
Jason, sorry for the late reply! The best way to fill the left-behind hole is a little hi-temp silicone sealant, such as Permatex brand from the auto parts store...works great.
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Thanks. I ended up just using a short bolt and washers.
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I use the K type connector did it a little different , put in a female plug on the back. Like many of
you the weather was driving me crazy trying to protect the Auber , now it`s on the kitchen counter
problem solved ( for me ) go to " my set up " LTS
HTH Paul
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not very computer savvy what makes the pix go sideways ???
Thanks Paul
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Paul, the sideways pics is usually a product of how you import them into the forum. I have best luck editing through a simple editor (size and crop). Seems folks uploading directly from phones have the problem of sideways pics. Might try saving them to computer before uploading.
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thanks Tony, I did transfer from my phone to the comp. Some not all turn sideways I guess it`s
OK if you`re laying down
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thanks Tony, I did transfer from my phone to the comp. Some not all turn sideways I guess it`s
OK if you`re laying down
I've found if I upload directly from my phone, pictures are sideways. If I copy them to my computer, they look upright, but they still end up sideways if I upload from from my computer. If I OPEN them in some sort of image editing program (like Photoshop), then just RESAVE them, they upload fine. Even though they looked upright in the image editing software, resaving them fixes this issue.
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I have found that after saving to my desktop if I will rotate them 360* (4 90* rotations on mine) they will load vertical. Crazy but it seems to work.
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not very computer savvy what makes the pix go sideways ???
Thanks Paul
Usually it is from posting pictures from your phone. I save mine on the desk top and edit before posting to eliminate the sideways pics.
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this is an old thread, but can someone recommend or have a diagram on how to wire the DPDT switch? What wire goes where? Or anyone have a picture of their install?
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Maybe this will help:
https://www.smokinitforums.com/index.php?topic=1287.0