How to install a permanent Auber temperature probe

[SuperDave]

I, too, like the offset of center idea.  With my #4 and 11 rack locations, I'm a little less concerned about top tier food interference. I might drop down the 4" - 5" just to insure full air circulation around the probe. 

[DivotMaker]

Sweet baby cheeses!  Sorry I'm behind on this one!  Looks like an engineers convention gone wild! lol. 

Now, I really think you all are way over-thinking this!  Here's the deal - Auber recommends the probe be as high as possible, but recommends the location I used in my instructions, based on the Bradley.  After practical use, I realize that is too low...it interferes, at times, with the meat.  So, I would place it about 1" from the top, dead center.  I disagree with the offset, that some have proposed, as I think you run the risk of air pockets or unstable heat toward the sides (I agree with Auber on this one).

As for the spacer:  I liked nylon, with a 5/16" ID, because that's what the base of the probe is, and is not subject to deterioration like metal.  Metal might also re-introduce the effect that nylon counters - heat sink (that's why they use nylon for the base).

So, install the probe 1" from the top, dead center, then do an autotune.  Problem solved, and great temps to follow!

[Walt]

Where did you find the elusive 1 inch nylon spacer with a 5/16" ID hole?

[DivotMaker]

Where did you find the elusive 1 inch nylon spacer with a 5/16" ID hole?

Tractor Supply, Walt.  Lowe's has them, too, in the specialty hardware drawers.

[CUTiger80]

Tony,
Your "wake up alarm" timing was perfect (kind of).  I am going to install my probe and autotune today.  I was already going to stop at Lowes and do some more "engineering" to find a spacer made of nylon.  I had thought to myself just this morning that the metal spacer may not be best for the very reason that you gave.  I will report back with more specific information on what I find at Lowes and/or Tractor Supply.
But don't blame us engineers for trying to make this install "perfect".  That is what we do.  We all blame you.  If you had not been asleep at the wheel with all of this knowledge bottled up, we would not have had to think this out so hard. LOL
As always, thanks for your help!!

[SuperDave]

The spacer is optional, no?  If the spacer wasn't used, would the nylon piece on the probe actually be in the smoker box? 

[DivotMaker]

The spacer is optional, no?  If the spacer wasn't used, would the nylon piece on the probe actually be in the smoker box?

Dave, the threaded section is really long - designed to go through the double-wall of the Bradley smoker.  You don't have to install a spacer, but you won't be happy with the results.  That extra inch of threads, sticking out from the back of the smoker wall, is unsightly and gets in the way!  I did it that way first, and found myself running to Lowe's for the spacer!

[CUTiger80]

I found the spacer at Lowes in the specialty hardware drawer marked Nylon something. I bought the switch from Amazon for about $7 including shipping.  I Will post pictures & links later. The hardest part is getting the probe conductor & power wire through the same cord grip.  I gave up @10:00 last night. Will attack again this morning. May decide to drill another hole (yuk) instead of take the chance on damaging the probe conductor.

[Walt]

Which switch did you go with, Tiger?

[CUTiger80]

Below is the link to the switch. It is a common DPDT panel mount 2-position toggle switch with screw terminals rated for 15A.
I did end up drilling another hole in the bottom for the temperature probe wire in order to provide separation between it and the power.  Made for an overall cleaner installation IMO.
http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K858QG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[CUTiger80]

I installed the permanent probe and the controller bypass this past weekend.  I will address the temperature probe in this post and the bypass in the appropriate category "How to bypass the analog controller".
I have posted photos below showing several steps in the process.
I decided to place the probe 1-3/4" below the top of the box near the center (see photo).  This was mainly because the metal tends to be harder near the bend where it transitions from back to top.  I removed the smoker door and latches (they lift straight up) and placed the smoker on its front to have more leverage when drilling.  I used a center punch to indent the sheet metal and drilled a smaller pilot hole first and then the 5/16" hole.  Let the drill turn slowly and be patient because this stainless is hard.  I also used a cutting oil to keep the bit cooler, but regular motor oil will work.
I bought nylon spacers from Lowes in the Speciality Hardware section.  They were in a drawer marked Nylon something (don't remember exactly).  The photos below show the package (front & back).
After installing the probe in the back wall, I decided to drill another hole in the bottom for the probe cable.  I tried briefly to fit the cable in with the power cord but it was too tight for my liking and I was afraid that the probe cable would become pinched.  Also, I am not a big fan of running control or sensor cable with power.  If you decide to go this route, you will need to make sure that the hole you drill is at least as large as the connector on the probe.  You should also install a rubber grommet (also available from Lowes in one of the Speciality Hardware drawers) in the hole to prevent the cable from being damaged by the edge of the stainless. (Note that in the photo below the smoker is turned top down so that the drilling is easier).

[DivotMaker]

Nice install, Ravel!

[Walt]

I did the same installation as Ravel.  Very simple.  Parts list as follows:

1     Permanent Mount temperature probe

1     1" long nylon spacer with at least a 5/16" ID

1     1/2" titanium drill bit (used to drill the exit hole for the probe)

1     1/2" rubber grommet (for the hole you drill so the sharp edges wont dammage the
        wire that us fed through.  The hole needs to be 1/2" so the RCA plug can fit through)

1     5/16" drill bit (I placed the hole 1" from the top and slightly to the left of the center
       support like the picture above of CUTiger)

[DivotMaker]

Good job, Walt!  Let us know how it works out.

[SuperDave]

So, who owns the record for most drill bits required to install their permanent temp probe?  I broke 4 small bits and went through another 4 or 5 getting a hole punched through the box and the back panel.  The most definitive lesson to date with the new smoker is that I never want to drill another hole in this thing again!!!! 

BTW, on my model 4, the plug that goes to the Auber required a 7/16" hole to get through the back panel.